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If you go to Leo, a pizza place in Williamsburg, expecting it to be Ops 2.0, you’ll be disappointed. It's from the same people, but Leo’s big, boxy space isn’t as charming, and its order-at-the-counter setup feels disjointed considering the bar seating and fridge full of natural wines by-the-bottle. But if you just want to get some high-quality pizza and drinks with a few friends, and you want a less sleep-inducing alternative to Emmy Squared, then you’ll be very happy at Leo. The short menu includes a few small plates like excellent sourdough bread with salted butter or potato croquettes topped with anchovies, but you should focus your attention on the pizzas. While the thin, charred crust with spongy edges ensure there are no bad pies here, you need at least one acidic, briny clam pie on your table.

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