Four Twenty Five

If you don't want to stray too far from your Midtown co-op, you can get a sampling of the world at Four Twenty Five. Shiso, sauerkraut, aji amarillo—in true Jean-Georges fashion, the place does it all. And yet, polished as it is, it’s still kind of boring.

In a bi-level space with a ground-floor lounge and a carpeted mezzanine up a flight of stairs, this restaurant serves a globally inspired menu built on the usual scaffolding of French and Italian. On paper, it’s interesting. In reality, it’s pleasant, but more of the same.

On the ground floor, one must stare at the 24-foot painting.photo credit: Nigel Young, Foster + Partners

The longest sheer curtains in the world.photo credit: Nigel Young, Foster + Partners

Should you need an upscale venue where you can touch base with the other members of your charity board, we can think of no better option. The leek-swirled foie gras with gingerbread-like madeleines might cause some disruptive oohs and aahs, but the fluke tartare, spaghetti with uni, and sesame-crusted scallops will neither spoil nor intrude on your conversation.

Peppy servers in burgundy suits, a constellation of dangling lights, and a glass-enclosed kitchen provide some extra flavor, but there’s still a hard cap on how stimulated you’ll be. Depending on what you’re looking for, maybe that’s a good thing. Four Twenty Five is a tame, fancy place for tame, fancy dinners. Boring, yes, but perfectly so.

Food Rundown

Fluke Tartare

On New York City menus, fluke is inescapable, and it usually tastes the same. But here, the shiso wraps and crunchy sea beans keep things lively. Start your meal with this.

Sliced Kampachi

Even if it’s just another crudo that won’t change your worldview, we’re fans of this dish. The aji amarillo sauce is thick and tangy, and the crushed corn nuts add some fun texture.

photo credit: Bryan Kim

Foie Gras Terrine

We aren’t sure which is better: the brick of foie gras mixed with leek ash, or the fluffy spiced madeleines on the side. One of the best terrines in town gets a solid A+.

Organic Chicken Breast In Black Truffle Crumbs

Serving an inevitably dry chicken breast for $40+ is a very bold move. Maybe that’s why they dressed it up with truffle. It doesn’t help—and neither does the vinaigrette-soaked rice—but we appreciate the attempt.

Roasted Scottish Cod

Apologies, but we have little memory of Scottish cod. Although we do recall a nice sear, a vaguely vegetal sauce, and indifference.

photo credit: Bryan Kim

Charred Marinated Jurgielewicz Duck Breast

This textbook medium-rare duck breast pairs perfectly with the lemongrass-coconut sauce underneath. In terms of mains at Four Twenty Five, it’s our top pick.