LAReview
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Tre Mani
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Like a USC applicant with celebrity parents, some restaurants have an innate advantage. That's what we initially thought about Tre Mani, the lunchtime sandwich collaboration between Jyan Isaac (one of LA's best bakeries) and Ghisallo (one of our favorite pizzerias on the Westside). It would be confusing—shocking even—if these sandwiches didn't live up to the image we fabricated in our heads, one that involves perfect slabs of crusty bread, oozing burrata, and flowing ribbons of mortadella. Fortunately, we were not disappointed.
With its incredible Roman-style flatbread and balanced, delicious fillings, Tre Mani serves some of our favorite sandwiches in the city and one of the best meals you'll have in Santa Monica.
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
The lone downside to Tre Mani is its limited hours. Operating out of Ghisallo, the lunch concept is open from 12-4pm, Tuesday to Sunday. So, apologies to anyone east of the 405 who can't easily make it here on a lunch break. Just know that the traffic is worth it once you get a hold of Jyan Issac's schiacciata. These slabs of freshly baked bread have large air pockets that give it a bouncy, spongy texture, not unlike a fancy mattress you'd see on a late-night infomercial. Its browned crust loudly crackles when you bite in and comes sprinkled with big salt crystals that melt on your tongue. It's some of yeast's finest work and the main reason why every Tre Mani sandwich is so delicious, regardless of the fillings you choose.
Still, some sandwiches are more interesting than others. The mortadella—our undisputed favorite—ticks all the boxes of a great sandwich. Fatty pork is cut with horseradish, sweet fennel, and a tangy aioli that sneaks into the bread's nooks and crannies. The salami sandwich has a sweet-savory thing going on, with a slathering of blueberry jam that makes the salty ingredients pop. And, sure, you won't be disappointed by the spicy eggplant option with torn mint or the porchetta sandwich stuffed with fresh pear, but they don't deliver the same flavor punch as the rest.
We recommend eating your big Roman sandwich on Ghisallo's breezy stringlit patio, preferably with a glass of wine and your phone on mute. (These sandwiches are so big you'll need both hands anyway.) As obvious as it seems, Tre Mani is proof that if you put together quality bread with quality fillings, you'll end up with a high-quality sandwich worth planning your lunch around. Not that we expected anything less.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Mortadella
Indecisive? Get this one. The thin slices of mortadella (aka fancy bologna) are so fatty and luscious it could easily hog the limelight, but that's not the case. The horseradish sends a sharp twang up your sinuses but doesn't linger too long. The sweet fennel is there but isn't too obnoxious. And then there's the lemon aioli that brightens everything up like a well-received joke at a funeral.
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Salami
Sweet-savory people, this one's for you. There's nothing subtle about this sandwich, and we're into it. The sweet blueberry jam brings out the saltiness in the cold cuts and funky pecorino cream.
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Eggplant
If you want a sandwich on the lighter side, this veggie option is your best bet. We wish it delivered a little more heat and flavor—the eggplant coated in Calabrian chiles is more smoky than spicy—but the creamy textures of soft-roasted eggplant and cool burrata give it a decadent feel. The fresh mint is a nice touch, though.