Lovely’s Old Fashioned

Burgers, fries, a 1950s motif that’s supposed to remind you of when people owned homes, listened to Doris Day, and learned about the struggles of the American teen from a 24-year-old James Dean wearing a cool red jacket. It’s not a novel concept, but Lovely’s does it better than most.

photo credit: Emily Schindler

photo credit: Emily Schindler

From the owner of equally-comforting Hell’s Kitchen spots Zillions and Steak Frites, Lovely’s Old Fashioned operates out of narrow space at 9th and 45th, and sells a brief menu of soda fountain-appropriate items. You order at the register, then either take your food to-go or grab one of the 10 stools at the counter where you can sit and watch balls of ground beef being flattened on a griddle.

Inspired by after-school burgers the owner’s grandma used to make, the patties are neither thick nor thin. Instead, they’re that classic middle ground that’s becoming weirdly hard to find. The potato buns are key, and when it comes to the hot dog and patty melt, caramelized onions provide a big boost of flavor. Don’t forget a side of the spiral-cut fries (known as sidewinders). Somewhere between curly and wedge, the satisfying shape is yet another nice little touch that helps Lovely’s stand out.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Steve Hill

Single Hamburger

This isn’t a gimmicky burger. Lovely’s is above such things. All you get is a nicely charred mid-sized patty with mayo, pickles, and onion on a perfectly squishy bun. At $7, it’s a great deal.

photo credit: Steve Hill

Charlotte’s Special

If you’re willing to spend $8.50, you can upgrade to a Charlotte’s Special. This burger comes with pickles, American cheese, a sauce that’s similar to russian dressing, and “lots of fried onions.” The extra buck-fifty is worth it for the onions alone.

photo credit: Steve Hill

Patty Melt

The actual patty gets a little lost in the patty melt, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. We’d gladly eat this messy sandwich on toasted rye with just the onions, mushrooms, swiss, and russian dressing.

The Mushrooben

Remember when we said we’d eat the patty melt without the patty? That’s pretty much what this is, with the addition of pastrami-spiced mushrooms. Don’t think of it as a token vegetarian option. Think of it as the best grilled cheese you’ll have all year.

photo credit: Emily Schindler

Lovely’s Snappy Dog

After you order your Snappy Dog, you’ll see the cook toss a mountain of thinly sliced onions on the griddle, and you’ll think, “Is all that for me?” It is, and you’re welcome. Topped with said onions, the dog is indeed very snappy.

photo credit: Emily Schindler

French Fries

What a shape. Other burger spots will almost definitely hop on board, and every person you know who talks about cottage fries will probably start obsessing over these ones. Crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, Lovely’s twisted fries are great for dipping.

photo credit: Emily Schindler

Onion Rings

We’ve heard people say that these are too salty. But salt tastes good, so we find that criticism confusing, especially in the case of these ultra-crunchy, golden brown onion rings.