Kanyakumari

At Kanyakumari, a Union Square restaurant with a splash of neon and some mismatched chandeliers, there are dishes with the power to recalibrate your taste receptors. On a good night, you might get two or three. For a meal that pops and isn’t tough to book, those are betting odds.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Like Semma, Chalong, and the Detroit-style Ace’s, this spot from the folks behind Laut has a specific regional focus. The food is mostly coastal South Indian, although the chef is from Mumbai, so it makes sense that not everything stays on theme. There is, however, one unifying factor: a level of seasoning that’s almost rude to other restaurants.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Arranged as a travel itinerary, the menu isn’t the most user-friendly, but on the road to shaved coconut and Tellicherry peppercorns, the fleeting confusion is a minor speed bump. Filed under a section labeled “Beginning of your Journey,” the small-ish plates—like the sweet/salty duck, and guntur idli with whole star anise—pack the most oomph, and you could easily just focus on those. You should, however, get a curry for the table. Preferably the one with a branzino fanned like it's receiving a spa treatment.

Despite some adventures in plating techniques, Kanyukamari isn’t the sort of place you need to get dressed up for, or book a few weeks advance. You could bring a date (they seem to go fine here), but the place is best suited for a relatively casual night out with some folks who prioritize food with personality. The room is low-key, but the flavors are not.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Slow Cooked Black Gold Beef

Kanyakumari’s spice-crusted beef is crispy on the outside and—stick with us here—so soft inside that it’s almost marshmallowy. The whole Tellicherry peppercorns earn the dish extra credit, not that it needs it. Get it with a side of flaky Malabar parotha.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Toddy Duck Roast

So much complexity. And so much salt. But you know what? The salt works. Get this small pile of duck for the table.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Amma Mess Fish Curry

A whole, flaky butterflied branzino served over a curry with a strong chili flavor. We’d love more heat, but we also understand that it’s rude to complain about things that are delicious.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Malvani Chicken

Thick as wet cement, this khaki-colored curry is packed with fenugreek, black cardamom, coriander, and what tastes like roughly 40 other ingredients (including, yes, chicken). A very reliable option.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Guruprasad Dosa

These people make a good dosa. Wafer thin, perfectly crunchy, and stuffed with peppery mashed potatoes, consider this an essential order.

Hoppers

Ethereal. Fantastic. No other notes. Aside from this one: Get the optional egg.