Enoteca Maria

People really enjoy saying things like, “These meatballs taste like something an Italian nonna would make.” But at Enoteca Maria on Staten Island, those meatballs were actually made by a nonna, who walks around the long, narrow dining room, and will be very pleased if you order the whole roasted lamb’s head. That’s head nonna—think of her as the lead singer of the nonna band—and she cooks Italian food alongside a rotating cast of grandmothers from all over the world. 

Come with a group for a slightly boozy late weekend lunch or early dinner, and load up your table with ceviche made by Peruvian nonna Rosa, Japanese nonna Yumi’s grilled eggplant, or another special from whoever is on the roster that night. It’s a wacky array of food, but a heartwarming one—and will make you want to hug your own grandma tight. Enoteca Maria is open Friday through Sunday; call to make a reservation.

photo credit: Willa Moore