SEAReview
After a six-month pop-up residency inside Pair (a former French restaurant), Pancita took over their charming corner space full-time. And that's not surprising, as this buzzy Mexican spot with connections to one of the best restaurants in the world had enough hype to propel it into orbit. But in Pancita's case, hype isn't enough—the food here is inconsistent and disappointing.
Pancita straight-up puzzles us. On one visit, the caesar has the right balance of radicchio, castelfranco, and cilantro, along with serrano-infused dressing and cotija-coated tortilla chips artfully tossed into each bite. But on another visit, the caesar is bitter and too salty. Sometimes an order of two street tacos with tender brisket is well worth the $14 price tag. Other times, the once-delicate brisket is cut into dry and chewy chunks. And even though the half-chicken is dressed in a rich mole worthy of sopping up with Pancita’s homemade nixtamalized corn tortillas, the pork chop in pipián verde is covered in enough finishing salt to clean a wound.
photo credit: Nate Watters
photo credit: Nate Watters
photo credit: Nate Watters
photo credit: Nate Watters
photo credit: Nate Watters
The only dish we can always count on is the tuna tostada. This masterpiece has buttery albacore on a light tostada that never crumbles, fried leeks, and morita chile-spiked kewpie mayo that’s so disorientingly delicious you might forget where you are for a moment. But unless you want to spend a date night fighting over tostadas by candlelight, even such an exquisite one does not warrant a trip.
If you do end up with plans to eat here, you’ll enter a cozy dining room that could easily pass for an Anthropologie. Every dish is plated on gorgeous dinnerware that Joanna Gaines would approve of. But a comfortable space and pretty plates don't make up for the fact that we would have rather spent $200 on boho-chic candles at a real Anthropologie. Instead, we often leave Pancita still hungry—and about as bitter as the serrano caesar.
Granted, an oversalted porkchop and tough cut of brisket from Pancita is still pretty good. Nothing here is horrible or inedible. But for a restaurant that charges $20 for a salad and $40 for chicken, it doesn't feel fair for the quality of the meal to be left to chance. The only consistent moment should not be the shock when you lay your eyes on the bill. And with so many other incredible Mexican restaurants in Seattle to choose from, why roll the dice?
Food Rundown
photo credit: Nate Watters
Albacore Tuna Tostada
This buttery tuna with avocado and crispy leeks has morita kewpie mayo and is laid on top of a tostada shell that magically never shatters. It is consistently what Pancita does best.
photo credit: Nate Watters
Serrano Caesar
You never really know what you're going to get with this salad. Sometimes the greens are all radicchio or all castelfranco. Sometimes it's very spicy, or too salty. We're ecstatic when there's an mix of leaves and the tortilla chips get caked in dressing and cotija. Any other variation is a bit of a letdown.
photo credit: Nate Watters
Mad Hatcher Chicken In Mole
This juicy half-chicken can be seasoned down to the bone and covered in an earthy mole and sprinkling of sesame seeds. It can also be dry and bland with barely enough mole to cover the bird. Unless you are a psychic who can predict which you'll get, it’s not worth the $40 and long cook time.
photo credit: Nate Watters
Lan Roc Farm Pork Chop
With an already very salty exterior and then a load of finishing salt, this otherwise-tasty pork chop is a potassium pill and pair of compression socks waiting to happen.
photo credit: Nate Watters
Brisket Suadero Tacos
When the beef in these tacos is finely chopped and equal parts fatty and meaty, there's nothing stopping them from a world taco takeover. But when inconsistently cut and dry, they are just underwhelming.
Chocoflan
Pancita knocks this dessert out of the park. The double layer of flan and soft chocolate cake with spoonfuls of miso caramel is something we can't stop thinking about. Plus, it's gluten-free.
