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On a small side street in Chinatown, Four Kings is a modern Chinese spot from some Mister Jiu’s alums that manages to soar above high expectations with their new spins on Cantonese classics. The seven-day dry-aged squab is intensely crispy, the XO escargot has enough sauce to fully soak the fluffy milk bread it comes with, and the beef chow fun is perfectly stir-fried. A meal here is fun and casual—’90s Canto-Pop is the only thing that comes out of the speakers, and Cantonese film and music posters line the walls. Unfortunately, reservations are hard to come by, but they’re open until 11pm and take walk-ins all night at the bar.
photo credit: Pete Lee
