Kapara

Before it closed in 2022, it was impossible to get a reservation at Balagan before 10pm. Which, as long as you didn’t mind eating hummus-soaked challah so late, was the most fun time to go anyway. (Shots! DJs!) But now, the team who also run Tékès, Shabour, and Boubalé are back in the same location with the same vibe. What has changed, beyond the name, is the chef—now, the menu infuses Iraqi and Moroccan takes on Israeli cuisine: smoked baba ganoush comes with a bruléed top, and a creamy, carbonara-like “risotto” is made with couscous instead of rice. But the must order is the sabich sandwich, which swaps pita for flaky boreka and comes topped with egg. It’s the ultimate hangover cure, only it’s served while you’re likely still drinking.