Potenza Centrale

There’s small, and then there’s Potenza Centrale small. This Alphabet City pizzeria is roughly as wide as a middle seat on a budget airline, with containers of dough crowding one wall. But there’s nothing cramped about the flavors in their focaccia-like, rectangular pizzas. Though the purple potato pie is attractive, on your first visit, go with minimal toppings to experience the complete range of textures that the 76-hour, triple-fermented dough produces: from a puffy, chewy top, to the crouton-like crunch on the bottom. A bright, exceptionally acidic tomato sauce more than stands up to the crust, and you can buy a jar of it, or some fresh mozzarella, as well. Eat a slice at the lone table outside, or walk over to Tompkins Square Park.

photo credit: Will Hartman