NYCReview

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

A white plate of chicken parm.
8.4

Ortobello's

Italian

Mapleton

$$$$Perfect For:Casual Weeknight Dinner
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The inside of Ortobello’s feels a little like a Roman trattoria, if you snatched it out of Italy and placed it on a corner in Mapleton, Brooklyn, next to a barbershop, and across the street from a restaurant called Pizza Daddy. The food here is very much not Roman trattoria—the spicy vodka chicken parm might utterly confuse a born-and-bred Italian—but for excellent Italian American classics in Brooklyn, there's no better place. 

In this red-and-white room, decorated with old paintings, photos, and a a papier-mâché nativity scene, Andy Ortobello runs the show, just like his father did so before him. He ambles around in a backwards baseball cap, presenting the handwritten specials board, refilling a carafe of red for the table of 12 taking up half the restaurant, and thanking the couple from New Jersey for making the trip. Every time we come here, we thank ourselves for making the trip too.

exterior of ortobello's

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

People dine at small tables covered in red table clothes and a white one on top inside Ortobello's. Stained glass lamps and red string lights hang from the ceiling

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

The penne alla vodka, broccoli, chicken parm, and mozzarella in carrozza from Ortobello's served on white dishes on a white tablecloth

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Penne alla vodka served on a white dish.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

exterior of ortobello's
People dine at small tables covered in red table clothes and a white one on top inside Ortobello's. Stained glass lamps and red string lights hang from the ceiling
The penne alla vodka, broccoli, chicken parm, and mozzarella in carrozza from Ortobello's served on white dishes on a white tablecloth
Penne alla vodka served on a white dish.

Ortobello's is the sort of place we want to scream about from the rooftops, and then, once we've finished screaming, bring everyone we know for a big birthday dinner. If there’s spicy vodka chicken parm on special, get it, along with mozzarella in carrozza, and the linguine with clams, which has whole cloves of garlic in it that are just ever-so-slightly crushed. Save room for a massive, jiggling square of citrusy ricotta cheesecake for dessert. Whether it's a special occasion or just a Sunday night, this is the place to come when you want to be warmed by way of cheese, from the inside out.

Food Rundown

A dish on a table at Ortobello's.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Mozzarella in Carrozza

There's a high chance the people at the table next to you will be talking about how much they've been craving this fried mozzarella since the last time they were here. Order this. You can also ask for it in vodka sauce, which we recommend doing if you're not ordering any else with vodka sauce on it. You must try the vodka sauce at Ortobello's.

Chicken parm at Ortobello's.

photo credit: Alex Staniloff

Chicken Parm

If we used one word to describe this chicken parm, we'd go with hefty. There's nothing thin and pounded about it, and we're glad. Instead, there's a thick layer of breaded chicken, sauced liberally, with an even thicker layer of mozzarella on top. And still, some bites are crispy. What a show-off. Sometimes, you can get it vodka-sauced. Remember the rule: You must put vodka sauce on something.

Linguine With Clams

If you come with someone who grew up eating garlicky bivalves, they may say something like "this is just how my grandma made it" once they taste this dish with barely crushed whole garlic cloves. It's a nice, lighter way to balance out the chicken parm.

tray of ricotta cheesecake

photo credit: Ortobello's

Ricotta Cheesecake

We swear the ricotta cheesecake jiggles, just from someone looking at it. It's a masterpiece.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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