CHIReview
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Clubstaurants are rarely known for having great food, and eating isn’t the point at Costera Cocina Tulum either. But this recent entry into the pool of West Loop untz-untz spots has its uses: a fun birthday for example, or when the Morningstar Investment Conference is in town and wants to go all out on a Thursday night.
In other words, if you're excited about seeing a pineapple on fire, you will have a good time at Costera. The “modern Mexican” dishes are benign if unmemorable, the drinks are tasty despite being batched, the service is attentive, and the overall experience is everything you want from a place you plan to plaster all over social media.
photo credit: Veda Kilaru
photo credit: Veda Kilaru
photo credit: Veda Kilaru
photo credit: Veda Kilaru
The sprawling “Tulum-inspired” space is decked out in straw, palm trees, and enough rope for a legion of double-dutch teams. The scent of palo santo fills the air, mixing with whiffs of sulfur from bottle sparklers which appear as early 6pm. If you’re seated on the heated patio (regrettably dubbed “jungle dining”), be prepared to shout-talk over thumping house music and to use your phone’s flashlight to read the menu. The restaurant transforms into a full-fledged club after 10:30pm—that's when the fog machines emerge—but a meal here is an event no matter what time it is.
Many of the dishes at Costera emphasize style over substance, like a mini trompo al pastor flambéed tableside for 20 seconds, then whisked away to the kitchen to be returned as a bowl of overly sweet pork. Much of the surf and turf-heavy menu is perfectly fine: good enough that you won’t be mad, but slightly annoyed that you spent $58 on nicely charred snapper where most of the flavor comes from a side of semi-mushy tomatoes.
photo credit: Veda Kilaru
photo credit: Veda Kilaru
photo credit: Costera Cocina Tulum
There are better Mexican restaurants in the city than Costera. But you’re not here for a meal that's going to blow your mind. You’re here for flame-topped margaritas served in tiki cups and rounds of shots delivered via airplanes with sparklers on the wings. At Costera, your sustenance is "vibes" and nature’s majesty in the form of carved wooden monkeys hanging on basket lights.
photo credit: Costera Cocina Tulum
Food Rundown
photo credit: Veda Kilaru
Short Rib Quesadillas
It’s hard to identify what’s under the disproportionately large pile of iceberg lettuce and cheese. Turns out it's short rib and tangy salsa verde wrapped in soft-on-the-inside, crispy-on-the-outside fresh masa. And it's one of the best things on the menu.
photo credit: Veda Kilaru
Peruvian Ceviche
Despite being piled high with ingredients showing off some excellent knife work, the coconut leche de tigre tastes watery, and the only seasoning seems to come from the salty chips that accompany the dish.
photo credit: Costera Cocina Tulum
Pork Shank Pibil
No matter how artfully the waitstaff plucks the bone from this dish as a final flourish, it won’t disguise how borderline dry the pork is, and how under-salted the beans are. Fortunately, the pickled onions provide plenty of heat and a nice crunch.
photo credit: Costera Cocina Tulum
Surf And Turf
If you ever thought a McDonald’s burger would taste better with more salt and topped with a disconcertingly chewy mini lobster roll, then this is the burger for you.
photo credit: Veda Kilaru
Tagliatelle With Ragu Barbacoa
The pastas are generally a good choice, and the tagliatelle is a solid option. The noodles have the right amount of bite, the sauce is rich and tomato-y, and there’s a nice big dollop of truffle requeson to round things out.
photo credit: Costera Cocina Tulum
Spaghetti Con Langosta
This just-fine spaghetti arrives with little seasoning and a lobster shell on top. Another great example of a dish that prioritizes plating over flavor.
photo credit: Veda Kilaru
Mini Trompo Al Pastor
The one true miss on the menu. Costera’s showmanship is on full display with this dish, but we can’t justify ordering what amounts to a bowl of inedible jammy pork and canned pineapple.
