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Review

Umami Kushi

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For a long time, you could only find Umami Kushi’s okasu pan at certain coffee shops and supermarkets around the city. But this past summer, they opened a takeout window at their Rainier Beach production kitchen - which means you can now get these panko-crusted pastries straight from the source and fresh from the fryer. These stuffed dough buns are crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, with fillings that range from jerk-spiced chicken and plantain to smoked salmon in a potato cream sauce topped with furikake. And while choosing favorites between all of these excellent okasu pans is just as emotionally challenging as picking the cutest dog in a box full of newborn puppies, the classic beef curry and the BBQ pork are the pans not to miss here. And on Saturdays only, Umami Kushi serves excellent beignets covered in everything from cocoa powder to strawberry dust.

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