SFReview
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Flour + Water Pizzeria
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It’s easy to love Flour + Water Pizzeria. Well, actually, it depends. As a third grader, did you look forward to pizza parties like run-of-the-mill adults do paydays or new Le Creuset color drops? And do you enjoy eating deep-fried sticks of cheese?
We’re guessing yes, you love pizza. In which case, this North Beach spot could be your happy place. Compared to the neighborhood’s more classic institutions (like Golden Boy) and chaotic-good places with 12 types of pizza (hi, Tony’s), it’s the sweet spot that will set your little cheese and crust-loving heart aflame.
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Since this place shares DNA with the Cal-Ital pasta royalty known as Flour + Water, it should be no surprise that the people here know what they’re doing. Formerly in the Mission and now in North Beach, the revamped restaurant is like the carbohydrate version of Willy Wonka’s factory. Dough is spun overhead behind the glimmering bar. A fridge stays fully stocked with house natural wine (aptly named things like “Pasta Water” and “Pasta Sauce”). A massive, glass-walled “dough room” doubles as a private dining room. Plus, there’s a to-go slice shop in the back. Piping hot pies are paraded around the high-ceilinged space like show dogs. And you’re just as likely to see families stopping in after a Saturday morning tee ball game as you are twenty-somethings on double dates, all fighting over the last mozzarella stick.
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Speaking of mozzarella sticks, the versions here are lightyears ahead of every other version in town. They produce a cheese pull the length of a human wingspan, and are served with both marinara and ranch. An order (or three) of these is the ideal opening act before getting into the main event: the pizzas.
There are five red and five white ones on the menu, each on a blistered thin crust that should be used as a vehicle for sopping up that housemade ranch. The Hawaiian is a spicy-sweet dream with thinly sliced pineapple and capicola, finished off with chili crisp. Or maybe you’re in the mood for decadence. Go for the cacio e pepe pie that’s garlicky, loaded with fontina and mozzarella, and cracked black pepper. Other pies, like the margherita and the smoky eggplant, are perfectly nice, but less exciting. Whatever the case, save room for dessert. You’re legally required to order the salted caramel and fior di latte soft serve swirl.
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Birthday parties, long lunches, or going away dinners involving multiple rounds of boozy slushies—there’s really no bad reason to eat here. If the combination of pizza, mozzarella sticks, and soft serve doesn’t scream fun to you, well, we all have our differences. And if it does, know that this is North Beach’s best place for a chic group meal, so keep it top of mind the next time you want to eat a bunch of pepperoni slices with people you like.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Mozz Sticks + Marinara
Mozzarella with the consistency of molten lava, a gorgeously seasoned breadcrumb coating, and a side of chunky, mildly sweet marinara for dipping—these are the undisputed titleholders of the appetizer olympics.
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Caesar
Buried in so much parmesan you can barely see the lettuce, a mark of a great salad.
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Cacio E Pepe
If you’re not usually someone who gravitates toward white pies, this cacio e pepe pizza could change that. It’s a massive cream-bomb of pecorino crema, fontina, and mozzarella, all finished off with a smattering of black pepper that adds just the right zing.
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Hawaiian
The ham-and-pineapple classic, but with a considerable kick (everyone say thank you, chili crisp and pickled fresnos). Always a hit.
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Peperonata
A salty-sweet-spicy triple threat. The melty ‘nduja, peppers, garlic, and a gooey drizzle of hot honey make this one of the best pies on the menu.
Margherita
Nice, but snoozy, considering there are plenty of other more showy pies on the menu. Focus on those.
photo credit: Carly Hackbarth
Soft Serve
Like the mozzarella sticks, you shouldn’t physically leave the premises without ordering a cup of soft serve. The thick and ridiculously creamy fior di latte and salted caramel swirl is the way to go, along with a dollop of stone fruit jam or brown butter cereal crunch.