Lilia Comedor

The city’s Mexican restaurant scene leans toward overstuffed burritos and birria, and Comedor Lilia is a nice change of pace. The ambitious restaurant from República & Co on the South Waterfront is the answer for upscale Mexican food that goes deep into the hyper-seasonal Pacific Northwest thing. The daily changing menu might feature Hakurei turnips in mole or a carrot tlacoyo, moodily plated with pipian negro, black truffle shavings, and a pop of orange carrot foam. Order the juicy pork collar confit if it’s available. Depending on the season it might come with carrot sikil pak or black bean caldo, plus pan arabe. Or better yet, opt for the $98 chef’s tasting menu at the counter, and invite your Californian friend who insists there isn’t good Mexican food in Portland.