PHLReview
Included In
Sure, Saloon is a restaurant, but it’s also a dining rite of passage. It’s been around since 1967, and while it bills itself as an Italian chophouse, the South Philly icon can’t be put in a box. In many ways it’s a time capsule—one that honors a bygone era that, frankly, we’re happy to say goodbye to. It’s outfitted with separate entrances marked for ladies and gentlemen (don’t worry, they’re not actually in use), and there’s paraphernalia from the 19th and 20th centuries (ranging from questionably to clearly offensive).
photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo
photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo
photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo
But for the sake of this review, we’ll get to the point: the food is great and the experience is unlike anywhere else in town, so we can overlook the distasteful cowboys-and-indians knickknacks and enjoy our very large, very decadent meal.
When you walk into the Saloon you might feel like you crashed a private party—perhaps an official meeting of Waste Management Consultants. Men in crisp button-downs with hard-gelled hair swig martinis at the bar, while groups of women with striking likenesses to The Real Housewives of New Jersey travel in packs up and down the regal staircase, glasses of wine in hand. Hostesses show loud groups of friends to their candlelit tables, while the servers go over the 15+ items on the nightly specials list. The staff has as much personality as the building itself and most have been around as long, so they’ll be happy to assist with your order (bone-in for the veal parm, clams casino over the pavarotti).
photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo
Turns out, they know their stuff. The clams casino are better than any other in the city, and the lemony, lightly battered lobster francaise with crab is a must-order. There are lots of classic Italian dishes to choose from—veals, scampis, and Parmigianos abound—but a large section of the menu is dedicated to steaks, ranging from filets in a creamy cognac sauce to thinly pounded medallions rolled with spinach, pancetta, and parmesan. The Saloon dresses up all of their chops—simplicity be damned—but they're always cooked to temperature and beautifully seared.
You’ll want to ooh and aah over dinner, least of all over the thoughtfully plated food. The people watching is unmatched, from the Jack Nicholson-types with their 20-something paramours to patriarchs waxing poetic over Rizzo’s time in office with their smartphone-gripping grandkids. Or just take a tour of the enormous space that’s covered end to end with vintage signs, historic photographs, and objectionable figurines.
photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo
photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo
photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo
So yes, it’s an Italian chophouse. But it’s also dinner and a show. And an iconic Philadelphia experience. That’s a time capsule we can get behind.
Food Rundown
Clams Casino
This blend of fresh clams, diced celery, red peppers, bacon, and parmesan is broiled in the oven to a perfect crisp. They beat any other steakhouse’s Clams Casino, hands down, and are a must have for a group.
photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo
Lobster Francaise
This lobster tail is lightly battered and sauteed, then tossed in a lemony butter sauce. It’s served with chunks of crab meat, and we suggest getting a side of pasta.
photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo
Veal Parmigiana
This massive cutlet is breaded and covered in sweet tomato sauce and perfectly browned mozzarella cheese. It’s tender and flavorful—always order it bone-in—and big enough to share.
photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo
Filet Moda
Beef tenderloin is served au poivre-style and coated with a tangy, creamy cognac mustard sauce. There’s always a lot going on with the steaks here, and this one is no exception, but it’s perfectly cooked, rich, and delicious.
photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo
Dessert Tray
We're thankful the Saloon has held onto this relic. At the end of your meal, servers still bring out an actual silver platter full of desserts for the whole table to eyeball, decide on, and then fight over.