PHLReview

photo credit: Gab Bonghi

River Twice image
9.0

River Twice

AmericanExperimental

East Passyunk

$$$$Perfect For:Date NightSmall PlatesUnique Dining ExperienceSpecial Occasions
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In a notoriously crowded restaurant neighborhood like East Passyunk, you might think an unassuming spot like River Twice is just another farm-to-table place serving homemade sourdough and romanesco everything. Similarly, you might think your weirdly buff barista is just into Crossfit. The truth? Said barista runs the café in between Olympic trials, and River Twice is in a league above and beyond most restaurants in Philadelphia, let alone in the neighborhood. 

River Twice image

photo credit: Gab Bonghi

River Twice is a New American, ever-changing tasting menu spot that emphasizes local ingredients. It’s heavily influenced by the chef/owner’s Southern roots, but on any given night you’ll probably get a taste of Japanese and French flavors, too. The $98, seven-course tasting menu is, like a river, constantly evolving (get it?) so you might have an entirely different meal from one evening to the next. 

River Twice image

photo credit: Gab Bonghi

We know: “ever-evolving tasting menu” sounds like it will come with a side of pretentiousness. But while the dishes here are anything but low-key, the feel of the restaurant certainly lives up to that description. The minimalist corner space has pale wooden tables and a few plants surrounding the chef’s counter, while floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto East Passyunk and Tasker Street. Despite the austere decor, the energy from the anything-but-background noise of the Grateful Dead and Talking Heads is palpable. The music is as much a part of the experience as the welcoming, attentive service—along with the couples and groups of friends excitedly sharing their meal.

River Twice image

photo credit: Gab Bonghi

The menu leans heavily on seafood, and you can expect dishes like Firefly squid escabeche so neatly arranged they look like they came from a 3D printer, melt-in-your-mouth Maine scallop in a pool of slurpable white chocolate and shellfish butter, and clouds of frozen yuzu with a hint of lemon balm and mandarinquats. But it’s not all tweezer food; they also make incredibly crispy, golden fried chicken, and you can always add on the Mother Rucker burger as an additional $23 course (you should—it’s the best in the city). 

River Twice image

photo credit: Gab Bonghi

Save River Twice for birthdays, special occasions, or an ordinary Thursday with friends who squeal at the thought of chawanmushi toast with Maine uni, ricotta, and guanciale. If you can, sit at the chef’s counter and watch them work their magic in the tiny open kitchen (though we do get a thrill out of the utensil drawers hidden in the dining room tables). No matter where you sit you’ll have an unforgettable meal with some of the most delicious and interesting food in Philly. Just like your favorite barista, it’s unlike anything you expect. 

Food Rundown

The menu here changes everyday, but here are a few examples of things you might see.

River Twice image

photo credit: Gab Bonghi

Maine Uni Tartlet With Rose Cream And Forono Beets

River Twice image

photo credit: Gab Bonghi

Firefly Squid “Escabeche” With Elderberry Capers And Fermented Green Garlic

River Twice image

photo credit: Gab Bonghi

Bloody Butcher Grits With Koji Butter, Chive, And Trout Roe

River Twice image

photo credit: Gab Bonghi

Steamed Black Bass With Parsnip Puree & Sauce Of Lobster Tomalley, Brown Butter & Vanilla

River Twice image

photo credit: Gab Bonghi

The Mother Rucker Burger

Two beef pattys are topped with Cooper Sharp, pickled red onions, a slathering of everything-seasoned mayonnaise, all between toasted sesame seed buns. The meat has crispy edges and perfectly-pink middles. This burger is so f-ing good that even after a seven-course dinner, you’ll polish it off and be sad it’s over.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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