L'Ami Jean

The smoky scent of roasted beef draws you into L’Ami Jean’s packed dining room, where locals and tourists raise their voices to be heard over the chef’s booming baritone. It’s the best kind of sensory overload and a preview of the food’s intense flavors. Wild game is the way to go: Seasonal grouse is roasted with thyme, oregano-marinated duck breast is perfectly char-grilled, and the wild boar stew arrives in a generous vat that’ll convince you that small portions are a Parisian myth. (Plan on a post-meal nap on the Champ de Mars.) While it isn’t physically possible to save room for their incredible riz au lait, you should order it anyway. The rice pudding, subtly flavored with vanilla, is total comfort food as is, but becomes a top contender for the most memorable dessert in Paris once you add the salted butter caramel sauce and housemade nougatine.