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Gotham Bar and Grill has been a high-end place to get martinis and expensive American food since Arnold first said, “I’ll be back.” In 2019, the white tablecloth restaurant brought in a new chef and changed the menu to include dishes with influences from around the world, like charred Japanese eggplant and tilefish with shishitos and Chilean uni. Some appetizers, like the rich Iberico pork cheek with crunchy black chickpeas and the sepia ink spaghetti with spicy octopus ragu, are excellent. But many others, including the pickled oysters and the $44 lamb collar that’s almost all fat, aren’t even enjoyable if someone else is paying. The long bar in the high-ceilinged space is still an impressive place to bring a client or date for martinis or something from the massive wine list, but there are plenty of places that serve better food around Union Square.

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