MIAReview
The One On Sunset
This spot is Permanently Closed.
Some restaurants' entire fame revolves around childhood nostalgia. For those who grew up in South Miami, Swensen’s was one of those places. It was the sole Florida outpost of a San Francisco chain of old timey ice cream parlors. Besides the gargantuan sundaes, the most memorable thing about the old Swensen’s was that very ‘80s interior that reminded us of the set of Cheers—but filled with little leaguers, nervous high schoolers on dates, and the tenth birthday party crowd. But after a long run, Swensen’s finally closed—joining other bygone Miami childhood institutions like the good Parrot Jungle in Pinecrest and that really cool playground on Douglas Road that looked like a fort.
But Miami is the “Magic City,” and we never know when something will come back from the dead. So, we’re not too surprised that the old Swensen’s reopened under new ownership and a new name. We are surprised, though, that it not only retained all of its original character but is actually a lot better than ever.
For starters—and before we get sued by the real Swensen’s—the new restaurant is called The One on Sunset. The new owners kept almost all the original design features from the old restaurant: the wood paneling and bar, the worn bentwood chairs, the tiffany lamps, and the gorgeous mosaic tile floor. But they also spruced things up by reupholstering the banquettes, covering the walls with botanical wallpaper, and implementing a very techy tablet ordering system that travels from table to table. They also refreshed the menu so that the food and drinks are now just as memorable as the ambiance.
Case in point: you can get a local craft beer, a pineapple cider, or a Mexican Fanta with your meal. You can share a plate of queso frito sticks with guava dipping sauce worthy of becoming Miami’s official appetizer. The burger section of the menu is where you should focus your attention, though. Even the most basic burger here is up there with Miami’s best—a thick chargrilled patty perfectly cooked to order.
Finishing with ice cream is just as much a requirement as it was at Swensen’s. Especially because the ice cream is just a little bit better now and features some locally-inspired flavors, like coquito and guava cheesecake (both really good options). The massive sundaes are gone, which is just another sign that this place has grown up. But you can still get a more manageable one-person sundae or a proper banana split.
For those who grew up on Swensen’s, visiting The One on Sunset feels like going back to a place as nostalgic as Chuck-E-Cheese—but with craft cocktails and Neapolitan pizza. The One on Sunset still delivers that lived-in charm that made its predecessor such a local institution. It’s just that now you’ll want to visit not just for nostalgia, but because the food is actually pretty damn good.