Emma Cocina

Emma is one of the few places near the tourist-heavy Plaza Mayor and Mercado de San Miguel where you’ll find locals leisurely lunching or having quick tapas with friends alongside bewildered out-of-towners drawn in by the modest prices and hearty portions. Order a glass of wine from whatever’s on the daily chalkboard menu and pair it with some meatballs, stewed beef cheek, plates of cured lomo and chorizo, and platters of Spanish cheeses. This country takes jamón and queso as seriously as the French take Champagne (Manchego cheese has an official certification), and the owner Emma plates hers on top of pungent extra virgin olive oil alongside picos, bite-sized breadsticks.