Shirube

A good izakaya is easy to love—cold beer, sake, and small plates that warm your belly after a day of hitting tiny buttons and pacing around the snack drawer. It's a simple but effective formula, one that Shirube makes exponentially more interesting. We're not exactly sure why this Tokyo-based izakaya chain decided to open its first US location next door to a Chevron in downtown Santa Monica, but we're glad they did. Even if the choice of real estate makes it easy to miss, this narrow drinking tavern serves creative Japanese dishes with high-end touches, somehow at very reasonable prices. It's the most delicious bang for your buck in the neighborhood and a modern izakaya experience where the right amount of flair makes even a quick meal here feel special. 

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Our favorite thing about Shirube might be its varied menu. It skillfully juggles traditional Japanese dishes with unique items that sound like they were specifically designed to be alcohol's best friend. Glistening, high-quality sashimi and snow-aged Hakkaisan sake share a tab with Sapporo beer towers, prawn tempura covered in globs of spicy mayo, and the sweetest, crispiest corn ribs coated in a sticky shoyu glaze. For $16, a server will torch an entire mackerel filet tableside while you slurp thick udon twirled in salty cod roe butter or dan-dan sauce. Six to eight dishes is the sweet spot for two people, allowing you enough room to jump between light and delicate, and deep-fried and decadent. And better still, most dishes hit the counter in under ten minutes, so there's never a lull in the barrage. 

There are plenty of tables for groups in the dining room, but the bar seats are where you'll get the full Shirube experience, including a courtside view of the small but mighty kitchen, equipped with a charcoal grill and a spinning slushie machine full of frozen yuzu mojitos. And the chefs here mean business: they swiftly flip gorgeous wagyu steaks over hot coals, slice yellowtail with razor-sharp knives, and adorn tiny egg custards with jewels of roe. 

Unlike the traditional shoji-clad taverns in the South Bay or Little Tokyo, nothing about Shirube's decor is particularly charming or old-school. The most Japanese thing about this place is perhaps the giant sword-wielding Shogun mounted on the wall. You're surrounded by blank, black walls that don't add much, but at least give the food room to be the center of attention. Also, they play a lot of early Drake and 2000s R&B. 

At some point, you'll probably notice that despite the luxuriousness of the food, the majority of the dishes on the menu—aside from a shareable $50 wagyu steak and the mixed sashimi platter—fall well under $25, which is no small feat this far west of the 405. Shirube ticks all the boxes of a great izakaya and gets extra credit for keeping its booze and small plates experience unfussy and fun (without costing half a paycheck). We'll always welcome more of that in Santa Monica, even if it is next to a gas station.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Drinks

Shirube's drinks menu is nearly twice as long as its food menu, so you might need a minute to decide between shochu highballs, cocktails, or sake. The cocktails, like the Ichigo with strawberries and shochu, are so fruity they barely taste alcoholic. We'll stick to the sake menu with detailed flavor notes under each bottle. Also, the house-brewed umeshu is refreshingly tart and not too sweet.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Aburi Shime Saba

You wouldn't look like a doofus if you muttered "holy mackerel" at the sight of this dish. It's a whole lotta mackerel—an entire filet's worth—for $16, and it's meaty, briney deliciousness. Your server torches the skin until it's charred and crispy without heating up the sashimi, which you then dab with freshly ground wasabi. Luxury.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Chawanmushi

These tiny egg custards are soft in texture but loud in flavor. The layer of salmon roe on top pops like salty water balloons and hidden chunks of snow crab add meatiness to the mild egg.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Corn Ribs

Everyone we've taken to Shirube can't shut up about these corn ribs. Not only is the corn super sweet, the ribs are dusted with cornstarch so they develop a crackly crust. There's a thick coat of salty–sweet (and sticky) shoyu butter brushed over every nook and cranny, too.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Wagyu Steak

Your server will warn you that this steak takes a while to prepare. (It's 20 minutes, you'll live.) But for $50, you get a sizable hunk of beef that feeds two, which gets seared over coals until it's a lovely dark red in the center. It effortlessly cuts apart and doesn't need besides maybe a dip into the citrusy yuzu kosho paste on the side.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Kamo

We wish all duck breasts were this juicy and pink in the middle. Even with its rich flavor, this cut of meat feels light because of the yuzu soy jus that curbs the bird's fatiness.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Mentaiko Udon

A lot of in-your-face flavors will hit you while slurping up these chewy udon noodles. First comes the fermented zing from kimchi, then a pleasant saltiness from funky cod roe butter, then the mellow savoriness of shredded nori. If you like bold dishes, this is for you.

photo credit: Jessie Clapp

Hojicha Brulee

The dark-roasted hojicha in this creme brulee is so nutty and smoky it tastes like coffee as much as it does tea. It's an excellent not-too-sweet way to end your meal.