Sakurako

If you look past the servers in suits giving monologue dish descriptions, Sakurako in Little Tokyo is a surprisingly fun, free-wheeling omakase experience. The chef behind the nine-seat counter cracks jokes while slicing snapper filets with the precision of a diamond cutter. Strangers lean over to pour sake into their neighbors’ glasses like it’s one big dinner party. The sushi here relies on gorgeous fish to shine, and in most cases, the nigiri only needs a gentle swipe of soy, a dab of wasabi, or a bit of yuzu to melt like margarine on toast. At $280 per person, Sakurako is firmly in the “major birthday or anniversary” camp, but the dining room’s delightful mayhem and the kitchen’s attention to detail make it a satisfying splurge. Sakurako’s 12-piece nigiri selection changes based on the season, but expect an entire dry-aged sushi section, plus a few appetizers, grilled fish, and tiramisu.