Oliver's Osteria

There are as many mediocre Italian restaurants in Laguna as there are poorly parked Range Rovers. Oliver’s Osteria, tucked in the hills a short drive up from the beach, is the exception. The staff is made up of Italian men who will sell you on beef carpaccio or housemade tagliatelle with bolognese like they were new sports cars. Skip the unremarkable entrees and stick to the excellent pasta, like the spaghetti pomodoro over burrata cream. There’s a tent-covered patio out front, but the move is grabbing a table in the cozy back dining room and ending the evening with tiramisu and chianti.