LAReview
Much of the fun in dining at Monarch comes from gawking at its whimsical dining room. The dreamy, new-wave Chinese banquet hall in Arcadia goes heavy on sex appeal, with cloud-like seating, scalloped tables, and mythical baby blue touches. The maximalist scene is typically filled with a hodgepodge of martini-fueled meet cutes and festive family dinners. If you’ve been to the jade-toned Chifa in Eagle Rock, Monarch’s ethereal decor might feel a bit familiar. That’s because both places are co-owned (and co-designed) by Humberto Leon, the famed fashion designer behind Opening Ceremony. But Monarch is more than just a glamorous fashionista side project—it’s a trailblazing San Gabriel Valley restaurant with memorable food and an ambiance that makes you feel like you’re at the center of a meticulously art-directed universe.
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Without coming off as gimmicky or over-calculated, the menu features twists on Cantonese cuisine that are consistently good, and occasionally great enough to put you in a trance. Dishes like the egg noodle bolognese and baked pork chop rice are pumped-up versions of what you’d find at cha chaan tangs—simple Hong Kong cafes from the British colonial era known for their fusion-y style of diner food. There’s also a crispy plate of sweet and sour pork made with kiwi instead of pineapple, juicy si yao chicken poached in housemade soy sauce, and an entire section of the menu dedicated to Australian wagyu, just in case you want to ball out on a $200 tomahawk. You'll find wine, beer, and some playful cocktails on the drink menu—none of them are especially remarkable, but a few sesame Old-Fashioneds will only add to the “anything-is-possible-tonight” feel that already exists at Monarch.
There are a few dishes we’d prioritize for any occasion—the colorful take on turnip cakes made with shredded beets, a wok-fried black peppercorn lobster tail that’s a strong contender for best lobster dish in LA, and a creamy, silky soup stocked with corn and crab meat. From there you can take one of two paths—a fancy, flourish-filled night of filet mignon tartare and steamed egg with monkfish liver and trout roe, or a simpler, more homestyle meal starring an excellent bowl of beef noodle soup or garlicky shrimp fried rice. Whichever path you choose, come planning to share everything, like a French fashion model doing a “What’s In My Bag?” video for Vogue.
A night at Monarch is so distinct that merely calling this place “cool” would be slander. We can't envision any other dining experience that effortlessly combines filet mignon, Chinese chicken salad, and T-back chairs upholstered with a baby blue cow print. Given that the restaurant is only open Friday through Sunday evening, dining at Monarch is almost by definition a special occasion affair. But if a fun meal of conversation-starting dishes surrounded by hot people in a periwinkle banquette doesn’t scream “big night out,” we don’t know what does.
Food Rundown
Beet Cake
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Black Pepper Lobster Tail
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Si Yao Chicken
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Addicting Curry Noodle
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Baked Pork Chop Rice
photo credit: Jessie Clapp
Dad's Beef Noodle