LAReview
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Herb Alpert's Vibrato Grill & Jazz
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There comes a time in every Angeleno’s life when they realize: LA is not like the movies. Maybe you’ve lived here all your life and have yet to see a celebrity. Perhaps you were sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic. Or were dragged to The Bungalow. And although it’s hard to look beyond the smog, rising gas prices, and Midwestern transplants who love declaring how “fake” everyone in their insular little group is, there are also entire other worlds that exist in Los Angeles—wonderful pockets that make you feel like life is being captured on 35mm film. Herb Alpert’s Vibrato Grill is one of those places.
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Started by the legendary trumpet player—best known for albums like Whipped Cream & Other Delights and The Lonely Bull with the Tijuana Brass—this Bel-Air jazz club whisks you off your feet and transports you to a glamorous world.
You enter from the parking lot of a Bel-Air shopping mall, and weave your way through rows of Aston Martins, Porsches, and paint jobs so glossy, you can almost make out your reflection. People are wearing suits, jackets, and dresses likely purchased at a department store. And once inside, you’re hit with a wall of sound: We’ve seen big bands with trumpets, trombones, and guitars perform Stephen Sondheim tributes, MCs tell stories that made us cry, and we were nearly hypnotized by a buff man with a single hoop earring who played the f*ck out of a sax solo.
For a place so focused on music, the food here is surprisingly edible. Sometimes even good. The tuna tartare tacos are encrusted in three different types of dyed fish roe and a dollop of avocado crema (scream), but come packed with plenty of high-quality, fresh-tasting fish. Skinny metal skewers string together pieces of filet mignon that melt in your mouth. And the truffle mac and cheese—which doesn’t have a strong truffle flavor, by the way—tastes nice and smoky, like something you’d eat at a fancy backyard BBQ. A good rule of thumb? The more outlandish, the better.
Basically, if you can imagine eating a dish at a tourist trap restaurant in Honolulu, order it.
However, the opposite also holds true: the more standard dishes, like caesar salad, New Bedford scallops, and crab-stuffed lobster tail are often boring, expensive letdowns. Stick with cocktails and a few appetizers to share with the table.
photo credit: Jakob Layman
But then again, you’re not really here for food, are you? You’re here because it’s your sister’s birthday, or to celebrate a special anniversary. Maybe you watched all of Cowboy Bebop and got hooked on high-energy jazz music. Or perhaps your best friend in the entire world is going through a breakup and you knew a sensual saxophone solo would cheer her up. You’ll see couples snuggled together in booths near the stage and back tables packed with friends, families, and people cheering so loudly, you assume they must know the performers personally. Candles bathe the room in a heady, suggestive orange/red glow. It’s a wonderful, magical, and quite frankly, gorgeous experience—just the way you knew Los Angeles could be.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Ahi Tuna Tacos
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Radicchio Salad
Calamari
Shrimp Cocktail
Filet Mignon Skewers
Crab Cake
photo credit: Jakob Layman
New Bedford Scallops
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Crab-Stuffed Lobster
Truffle Mac N’ Cheese
photo credit: Jakob Layman