LAReview

photo credit: Jakob Layman

Baja Subs Market & Deli image
9.2

Baja Subs Market & Deli

Sri Lankan

Northridge

$$$$Perfect For:LunchSerious Take-Out Operation
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Come into Baja Subs for a pack of cigarettes, some air freshener, or a Gatorade, and you'll leave with a takeout container filled with Sri Lankan egg roti and string hoppers.

This tiny counter in the back of a Northridge convenience store has the sort of classic LA set-up that might make out-of-towners tilt their heads. It's in a strip mall, there are just a few tables, and the menu combines seemingly disparate cuisines. (A sign out front says “Mexican grill” and they sell cold-cut sandwiches and burritos that absolutely nobody orders.) But to call this Sri Lankan deli counter a "hidden gem" or treat it like the hook for a cool story would be underselling its legend. This is one of the best places to eat in LA, period.

Baja Subs Market & Deli image

photo credit: Jakob Layman

Around this point in our restaurant reviews, we usually talk about a specific dish that you shouldn't leave without ordering. We can’t do that with Baja Subs, simply because we could argue every dish on the menu is the dish. Once, we drove on a flat tire in Friday night rush hour simply for their thin garlicky noodles. They're so soft and light, it's easy to forget you're even chewing. The kottu roti—chopped roti stir-fried with eggs, onions and carrots, shredded chicken, chiles, curry, and warming spices—has the kind of expert textural variation that makes our eyes gloss over while we eat it. And pineapple chutney-topped biryani is one of the most memorable versions in town. If it's your first time, you'll try one bite of each dish and immediately berate yourself for taking this long to meet them.

Don't let the convenience store setup fool you. We fully endorse having a sit-down meal at Baja Subs. Every dish is made to order, so don't be surprised if your egg-filled roti or lump rice takes 30 or 40 minutes to come out of the kitchen. If you're short on time, opt for takeout by calling them directly (they aren't listed on any apps).

Whether you end up dining in or picking up, Baja Subs' setting breaks most traditional restaurant rules. But none of that matters, really. What you'll remember is the tremendous Sri Lankan food in front of you. The bottles of Gatorade and packs of Marlboros are just bonuses on your way out.

Food Rundown

Baja Subs Market & Deli image

photo credit: Jakob Layman

Egg Roti

This dish hides at the bottom of Baja Subs’ menu, but don’t miss it. This flaky, chewy, egg-filled roti is simple and delicious—the ideal side for any other dish on your order.

Baja Subs Market & Deli image

photo credit: Jakob Layman

Kottu Roti

We know we said we didn’t have a favorite dish at Baja Subs, but that might’ve been a lie. We really love this kottu roti. Chopped flaky roti stir-fried with vegetables, eggs, and spices—it’s one of the most popular street foods in Sri Lank and required eating anytime you’re within five miles of Baja Subs.

Biryani

There is no shortage of good biryani in LA, but if you want a version that’s unlike any other in town, this is it. Topped with caramelized onion relish, cashews, pineapple chutney, and boiled egg, this dish strikes the balance of sweet, sour, and spicy. It's also large enough to last for a few meals.

Baja Subs Market & Deli image

photo credit: Jakob Layman

Sri Lankan Noodles

This is a great dish to balance out the bolder, spicier things in your order. That said, just because these garlicky, slightly sweet noodles are mild compared to the rest of Baja Subs’ menu, that doesn’t mean they’re any less flavorful. In fact, we’d argue the opposite.

Baja Subs Market & Deli image

Lump Rice

This dish is a grab-bag of meat curry, sambal, long-grain rice, and fried egg, all wrapped in a giant banana leaf. It’s a fantastic lunch option when you can’t decide what you want, but need to stay full until dinner.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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