LDNReview
photo credit: Holly Liss
Xi'an Impression
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The first time you go to Xi’an Impression you’ll notice that it’s smack bang opposite Arsenal’s football stadium. Ignore it. Football fan or not, this little Chinese restaurant is one of the most compelling things around Highbury and Holloway. It’s a white-walled, 12-or-so table affair. It doesn’t take bookings, doesn’t pretend to care how your day was, and has the thing that matters most: conversation-cancelling food.
Things like silence, addiction, and obsession are often seen as negative characteristics, but after a bowl of Xi’an Impression’s signature liangpi cold noodles you’ll understand that this is a misrepresentation. There are few better things than having your thoughts dominated by a bowl of chewy noodles and gluggable chilli oil, and much of the Xi’anese menu is full of dishes like this.
photo credit: Holly Liss
photo credit: Holly Liss
photo credit: Holly Liss
There are serious decisions to make here. The liangpi are in a constant Beyoncé and Solange-like battle for your attention with their biang biang sibling. A bowl of these chewy belt noodles is a meal in itself and is up there with the best single bowls you can get in the city. But then what about the crisp pot-sticker dumplings? Or cucumber in an irresistible sesame and chilli sauce? Even a Cantonese classic like sweet and sour chicken is a cut above the rest here.
This is a shoebox restaurant. So it’s worth knowing that you probably don’t want to come here in a group bigger than four without calling ahead. And, as with everywhere that’s BYOB, there’s the temptation to pitch up when you’re in a group, despite the small charge for corkage. That said, you want to share Xi’an Impression around—with friends, family, and with yourself. It doesn’t matter if you’ve been in London for 10 minutes or 10 years, this is a restaurant for anyone who’s a fan of special food.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Stan Lee
Xi’an Liangpi Cold Noodles
There aren’t many things we want (and have had) for breakfast, lunch, and dinner in one day. But these room temperature noodles are one of them. They’ve always got just the right amount of bite, and the chilli oil—a tangy t-shirt-ruining pool of excellence—is something you won’t regret slurping on its own.
photo credit: Stan Lee
Boneless Chicken In Ginger Sauce
A perfect pile of moist sliced chicken in a ginger and chilli-laden sauce. This is an excellent way to get things going, and is perfect to share between two.
photo credit: Stan Lee
Biang Biang Hand-Pulled Noodles
These are some chewy mothers. They’re nicknamed belt noodles because of their shape, but we just call them buff noodles. Because they’re really, really good. The perfect one person bowl of food.
photo credit: Stan Lee
Xi’an Beef Bun With Special Sauce
The special thing about special sauces is that you’ll never know what’s in them. But this one has definitely got a tasty amount of cumin, coriander, and chilli oil going on. Also, at £5, this is the pre/mid/post-match burger you should be getting if you’re going to watch Arsenal.
photo credit: Stan Lee
Pork And Vegetable Dumpling, Xi’an Sauce
Glorious pearly white and soft steamed dumplings. You’ll want to have these guys on your table whoever you’re with. A crowd-pleaser.
Pot-Sticker Dumplings
These crispy pan-fried dumplings come filled with chicken and mushroom or pork and seaweed, and they’re pretty good. Though we prefer the steamed ones.