Lume is the kind of low-lit, lowkey neighbourhood spot that makes you want to live within walking distance, and find a way to make sure that the staff never let anyone else sit at your corner table on a Sunday night. The food here is broadly Italian with Sardinian influences, and pasta dishes like their excellent cocoa pappardelle with venison ragu, and the linguine with smoked eels, sea urchin and foie gras, set it apart from most other neighbourhood restaurants we can think of. The other thing that sets it apart is the wine offering, which is among the best we’ve had at a restaurant in this part of town. Expect a massive selection, an array of very serious glassware, and lots of thoughtful swirling.
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Passo is a huge Italian restaurant on Old Street where you’ll instantly like the space, but don’t expect to be as impressed with the food.
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