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Review

Brasserie of Light

££££
Perfect For: People Watching

Sometimes you want a nice meal in a quiet, tasteful setting. And sometimes you want a slightly ridiculous meal in a setting with a 24ft crystal pegasus designed by Damien Hirst. When? We’re not sure. Maybe your mate with a penchant for mythical beasts has a birthday coming up, or maybe your rich colleague that says things like ‘look at the diamante on that’ is leaving. Either way, this all day British restaurant inside Selfridges serves a pretty mediocre take on lobster spaghettini and puts on a very dramatic smoke display for some so-so burrata. If you’re going to stop by just go for the popcorn shrimp and zucchini fritti. Come here if you desperately want to see three and a half celebrities. Or just a lot of other people who want to see three and a half celebrities.

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