Bambi

Bambi is a wine bar and European-ish small plates restaurant in Hackney, serves a mean pickle martini, and has a DJ booth. It’s going to rub some people up the wrong way, gammon or not. Whereas anyone who’s ever dominated the aux cord is going to love it. You can perch on a stool, film a candlelit chicken parm sandwich, and dance until 1am. Is it special? Frankly, no. Is it the perfect restaurant for London Fields? Almost definitely, yes.

Taking the airy space once occupied by east London royalty, Bright, this a good time place. The music bumps and the choice of margaritas and martinis is generous. There’s pickle juice, there’s yuzu, there’s an agreeable £10 price. The room is a chiropractor’s Christmas—entirely high tables and stools—but most of the tote-hoarding crowd don’t care. They’re just sharing gooey cauliflower cheese arancini and Googling the symptoms of RSI. 

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

With its late licence and sound system, Bambi is best as a bar first and a restaurant second. The food satisfies rather than stuns. If roast chicken with green sauce is on it’s a fine choice, otherwise a slab of ricotta-topped toast is a great snack for the table. There are plenty of vegetables to pick at and the low-intervention wine list starts at around £7 a glass. Mind you, if you want thorough advice and guidance in the grape department, this isn’t the place to come to.

Rumour has it that east London likes DJs and small plates. So, in those terms, Bambi is on the money. Even if it feels a little post-zeitgeist. Rewind to 2017 and this would be the edgiest wine bar and restaurant in London. As it is, it’s a safe choice for some crudo, fries, and funky pét nat. Come for dinner, sure. Most importantly, swing by for a dance.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Ricotta Toast

This dictionary-sized slab of grilled toast topped with ricotta is a winner day or night. The pickled red onions add a nice tang and there’s a welcome handful of peppery watercress on top. Crunchy, creamy, tart, and with a touch of sweet honey, it hits all the marks.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Scallop Crudo

Although it’s luminous in colour, this crudo is fairly safe in flavour. The spinach sauce could do with some more acidity and while the smoked butter is nice, it’s all a little one note. The scallop is nice, though.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Octopus, Nduja, White Bean Puree

As with most small plates restaurants, you’re going to have a few forks of this and a few forks of that. If you get the well-cooked pieces of octopus from this plate, you’ll be happy. At its best this is a warm and comforting dish, full of paprika, creamy bean mush, and tender octopus. But, equally, the wrong bite can be chewy and kind of cloying.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Chicken Thigh, Lentils, Aioli

The crispy skin on this chicken is a golden salty joy but like others things, the lentils could do with some added oomph. The caramelised beer-y onions are a nice addition and aioli always goes down well. A good plate of food.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Chocolate Cremaux

A decent dessert is essential when you’re going to be drinking and grazing, and this cremaux is just that. Sure, something jazzier could be done with the handful of hazelnuts, but overall it’s the rich chocolate hit you’ll need at the end of the meal.