Arlington

It was exactly two sips into our martini when the glamorous lady to the left twisted around to tell us that her waters almost broke in the same bar seat 20 years ago. That’s the kind of restaurant Arlington is. Places like this feel like pieces of living history and that isn’t just because the majority of the monochrome dining room looks like Joan Collins and Larry David smushed together. Once known as Le Caprice, this St James’s restaurant has been resurrected—fittings, pianist, clientele, and all—to its former swinging glory.

Jeremy King, the owner from 1981-2000, is back, gliding around the room like an amiable Savile Row-fitted giraffe, exchanging handshakes and thanking people for their thanks. Unsurprisingly, the European-ish food is something of a sideshow to the memories. But it isn’t bad either. A piquant beef tartare pleasantly surprises and bone-in chicken Milanese is enjoyable, if a little lacking in crisp. That said, you won't come to Arlington for a gastronomic look into the future. You'll come for good memories, whether you were here the first time around or not.