HOUReview
PS-21 is an expensive and excessive aspiring-to-be-French spot in Upper Kirby. Sure, it may resemble a restaurant with its walls and its kitchen and its little table lamps everyone loves for some reason. But nearly every other choice defies all logic and taste. Beef tartare is topped with a slab of foie gras for no conceivable reason, burrata comes pre-smooshed in a drinking glass, and there is a sad, gray $50 steak frites that looks like discount grocery store mystery meat. As food arrives, you half expect someone to pop out with a camera, revealing the entire operation to be a prank. But, nope, everyone around you is just playing restaurant. Maybe 20 years ago, someone would’ve considered this place kind of good, but these days, diners should know better. If you want to actually enjoy dinner, eat just about anywhere else instead.
