HOUReview

photo credit: Hugo's

Hugo’s image
9.0

Hugo's

Mexican

Montrose

$$$$Perfect For:BirthdaysClassic EstablishmentSpecial OccasionsDate NightBrunchBig Groups
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Go to Hugo’s once for a celebration and it’ll become a tradition. It’s where regular folks go to celebrate a birthday, and it's where Houston’s elite go to celebrate a random Thursday. It’s also where half of Houston has probably been to at least once for the legendary Sunday brunch buffet. Houstonians love Hugo’s. It’s a classic, an upscale yet casual Mexican restaurant in Montrose that always feels special, without ever trying too hard. 

Hugo’s is a stunner—the historic, Latin-inspired space was built in 1925 and has high ceilings and chandeliers that look like they were shipped in from a local castle. At Hugo’s, the details matter, including little things like margaritas that get shaken tableside, or having a coat rack brought out for your handbag. It’s a place that operates with the quiet confidence of an institution.

Hugo’s image

photo credit: Richard Casteel

Hugo’s image

photo credit: Richard Casteel

If the inside of Hugo’s isn’t enough to get you in the door, the food here will, especially the pillowy, handmade blue corn tortillas so delicious that they’re worth fighting over. You’ll find sensational traditional Mexican dishes like a tender slow-roasted lamb barbacoa or a crispy duck served with a fiery poblano mole. When they’re in season, make sure to order the classic chile en nogada, a walnut-crusted poblano pepper topped with a savory walnut cream sauce and pomegranate seeds. The menu is massive, spanning from ceviches to suckling pig. Everyone has their favorite dish, and everyone is right. 

Hugo’s image

photo credit: Richard Casteel

Hugo’s specializes in making meals memorable. It’s impossible to fight back a smile when your great-aunt’s birthday dessert arrives at the table with “Happy Birthday” written on the plate in chocolate sauce (like it is every year). If you’re balling on a budget, Hugo’s has an excellent Happy Hour—discounted margaritas and carnitas tacos taste maybe even more delicious than the full priced ones. And who can be a grump while a string quartet plays over the balcony during the Sunday brunch buffet? Because Hugo’s feels like fancy fine dining, without being stuffy or forced, even on a random Thursday. 

Food Rundown

Hugo’s image

photo credit: Richard Casteel

Chapulines

Chapulines at Hugo’s get sauteed and served between a spicy salsa and a creamy guacamole. They also come with housemade blue corn tortillas that might cause a heated discourse at the table over who gets the last one.

Hugo’s image

photo credit: Richard Casteel

Pulpo Al Carbon

The grilled octopus here is tender, fresh, and slightly charred. They’re also served with more flour tortillas, which is good in case the previous tortilla debate didn’t work out in your favor.

Hugo’s image

photo credit: Richard Casteel

Pato En Mole Poblano

At the center of this dish is a crispy duck leg that gets a dose of heat from the rich poblano mole. There’s also a pillow-soft square of mole cornbread underneath the duck that balances the spiciness of the rest of the dish.

Hugo’s image

photo credit: Richard Casteel

Barbacoa

The slow-roasted lamb is spicy, succulent, and practically melts in your mouth. It also comes wrapped in a banana leaf so it can be unwrapped like a present.

Hugo’s image

photo credit: Richard Casteel

Churros

Our favorite dessert at Hugo’s, the churros, are filled with dulce de leche and covered with a generous dusting of cinnamon-sugar. They also come with chocolate ice cream and a cup of housemade hot chocolate that you can sip on its own, or, preferably, for churro dunking.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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