Thattu

There’s no shortage of Indian restaurants in Chicago serving butter chicken. Some involve dosas. Fewer involve idlis. But none are dedicated to the food of Kerala, a southwestern state of India.

Except Thattu. 

This spot has had a few iterations over the years, serving Keralite comfort food from food halls, pop-ups, and now from a casual restaurant in Avondale. And comfort is exactly what you’ll feel here, as much from the laid-back atmosphere as from the food that’s near impossible to find in Chicago.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

photo credit: Vinod Kalathil

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Unlike most restaurants that seem plucked from the latest issue of Industrial-chic Digest, Thattu radiates warmth. Yes, there are high ceilings and exposed pipes. It even succumbs to the basket light trend plaguing restaurants across the city. But it’s a neighborhood spot that feels like it’s full of neighborhood people, partly because of the way the owner (half of a husband-and-wife team that runs the place) treats everyone like the nice kid who shovels their driveway. There are tangible personal touches too, like photos of handwritten recipes from the chef’s mother-in-law, a reminder that you’re settling in for a meal reminiscent of homestyle cooking.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Those recipes translate to delicious food. Seafood, coconut, and spices like turmeric and black pepper feature heavily in the best things here, like spicy pan-fried mussels that are the perfect pre-dinner cocktail snack. Or the fish steamed in a banana leaf, which you unwrap at the table like a peppery present. You’ll probably end up trying a majority of the short menu in one visit—unless you decide to make an entire meal out of five orders of masala-dusted tater tots.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

photo credit: Veda Kilaru

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

photo credit: Veda Kilaru

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

But, much like your wifi when you’re about to join a client Zoom call, the food at Thattu can be frustratingly inconsistent. Depending on the day, those excellent mussels might backhand (versus gently fist bump) you with saltiness. Or a haphazardly plated, overcooked pork chop may show up at the same time as dessert. The timing might be your own fault since you place your order via QR code, and dishes come out of the kitchen as soon as they’re ready. But if you can’t be trusted to realize that no, the order for the entrées should not be placed at the same time as dessert, friendly servers will help you time out your meal.

Thattu is refreshing because it’s different (and not just because of the quirky ordering system). You won’t see the predominantly-Northern dishes from your go-to neighborhood spot on the menu here. You won’t miss them, either.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Kappa Bonda

This little fried ball of yucca comes topped with a tangy chutney and wears a jaunty beret made of radish. It’s a perfect amuse bouche to start the meal.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Kerala Fried Chicken Sandwich

Don’t be alarmed by how dark the fried chicken looks. The charcoal briquette-like appearance is because of the spicy rub for the juicy thigh. Sadly, this masterpiece is only available at lunch, but you can get a version (sans bun and curry leaf aioli) at dinner.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Kadala Curry And Appam

We love this. It’s the only vegetarian entrée on the dinner menu, but the thick and coconutty black chickpea curry is hearty enough that you won’t notice the lack of meat. Pair it with the slightly less coconutty appam that doubles as a lace doily.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Meen Pollichathu

The sneeze factor of this dish is at an all-time high thanks to the black pepper, but otherwise, this is a perfectly cooked, mild fish. There’s a faint earthiness from being steamed in a banana leaf, and the seafood picks up flavor from a pool of tomato and turmeric gravy.

photo credit: Kim Kovacik

Pork Chop Peralan

A big ol’ hunk of bone-in pork will show up at your table sitting atop coconut braised greens and a perfectly formed yucca cake. It's swimming in a vinegary and tomato-y Peralan sauce that you’ll want to dunk your face in. Resist the urge, and try to get a bite with all four components instead.

photo credit: Veda Kilaru

Kaapi

We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the ridiculously good South Indian filter coffee. The ultra-frothy, lightly sweet, milky concoction is poured back and forth to temper the heat, and served in a steel glass, just like in India.