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It’s a bold (and dramatic) move to name your Middle Eastern restaurant Sifr, the Arabic word for “zero” or “nothing.” It’s also practical—under-promising and over-delivering is a solid strategy. But just one bite of juicy lamb kebab is enough to know that Sifr doesn’t need to manage expectations like a consultant angling for a full-time gig. A meal at this River North spot is the perfect middle ground between fancy and casual, and full of subtly inventive dishes that mostly deliver.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
photo credit: Neil Burger
Sifr’s “About” section says the name represents a new beginning, which makes sense since the restaurant comes from the team behind Indienne, a fine-dining Indian spot just a few blocks away. The two clearly share some DNA, although Sifr takes itself less seriously. It trades staff in crisp jackets and tableside pours for an open, live-fire kitchen, a casual dining room where house music mixes with the hum of conversation, and no white tablecloths are in sight. It all strikes a great balance of being inviting while making sure the focus stays on the food.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
You’ll never have a boring dish. Sifr smashes together flavors and techniques from across the Middle East and North Africa to create their own unique spins on traditional cold and hot mezze, plates from the grill, and a few larger entrees. Manakish and mezze are the moves here, but as fun as blanketing your table with a California king-sized quilt of dips and falafel and dukkah-crusted halloumi might be, try to save room for some of the large plates, which are cooked perfectly. Standouts like the lamb adana kebab or the grilled maitake mushroom in a peppery sauce hit the sweet spot of spice, smoke, and char. Seasoning can be hit-or-miss, though. A chicken tagine floats in an olive sauce so salty it could double as the Dead Sea. And a wagyu kebab tastes like a mouthful of cinnamon sticks, though not in the pleasant cup-of-Christmas-morning-coffee kind of way.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Sifr’s food is meant to be shared, which makes it an especially good choice for a group dinner with people who expect you to do the planning. Reservations for Friday and Saturday book up quickly, but a table during the week is manageable on short notice. And if you can’t bear the thought of giving up a single piece of manti, the large front bar is a lovely environment for a leisurely solo meal. It’s a welcome option in a neighborhood not really known for its subtlety. Settle in with a cocktail, and prepare to give Sifr an “exceeds expectations” for its annual review.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Muhammara
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Tunisian Eggplant
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Herb Falafel
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Maitake Mushroom
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Chicken Shish Taouk
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Summer Pea And Fava Manti
photo credit: Kim Kovacik