Olio E Piu

Chicago is no stranger to transplants like NYC’s Olio E Più, a spacious Italian spot populated with antique chandeliers, vintage posters, and a mixed bag of tourists and couples who look like they just wrapped a J. Crew photo shoot. But with its disappointing takes on classics, Olio E Più ends up being just another buzzy River North spot that you can skip. The easy-on-the-eyes carbonara turns out to be a pile of watery pasta even the salty guanciale can’t rescue from blandness. Branzino covered in tomatoes like bruschetta arrives mushy, and the lamb meatballs are similarly flavorless. And though the smooth panna cotta topped with refreshing passionfruit is solid, it isn’t enough of a consolation prize. If you’re in the area and need your red sauce fix, check out RPM Italian just across the street.

photo credit: Rachel Bires