CHIReview
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Gadabout
This spot is Permanently Closed.
Included In
It’s usually a red flag when a restaurant has an all-over-the-place menu. For example, dishes that sound like a grad student’s list of random things they ate while traveling the world. That’s the case at Gadabout, which also happens to be decorated like that same student’s apartment. But we’re happy to report that this small-plates restaurant in Andersonville is actually pretty great.
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Each college apartment is different, but the standard resale shop starter kit includes used furniture, mismatched chairs, and various knick-knacks like an old violin and a bunch of globes. You’ll find all those things here too, which is why this place feels like you’re hanging out with your cousin who just graduated from Oberlin. But even if you’re not into the Brown Elephant aesthetic, you’ll like their Japanese pancakes and tuna tostadas with gochujang and pickled jicama.
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Like that double major in art history (with a minor in computer science), most things here have what seems like two ingredients too many, but they all somehow still end up tasting great. Take the corn, poblano, and gruyere-filled empanadas for example. They’re topped with blueberries and roasted peaches, cotija, and served on a bed of spicy aji verde, and we were surprised by how well everything worked together. The same goes for the chickpea fritters with za’atar whipped feta, chimichurri, coriander, tomatoes, and pea shoots. There’s definitely a lot happening, but every seemingly random element ends up being there for a reason.
That said, some things are as overly-complicated and unnecessary as your cousin’s drunken tirade about Instagram and Nietzsche. Like the roasted carrots - an unwelcome combination of buffalo sauce, blue cheese spread, pears, walnuts, and salsa verde that makes zero sense and doesn’t taste good. Or pan-fried okra that despite having a spicy seafood XO sauce and garlic aioli is oddly bland.
Even if long-winded conversations about social media and philosophy make you want to escape away in a hot air balloon, there’s still something really nice about hanging out over interesting small plates, cocktails, and talking about whatever the hell you want. That’s ultimately what a great neighborhood place like Gadabout is meant for and good at. And unlike the actual Brown Elephant, you can spend all night sitting on the sofas here without anyone asking you to leave.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Sweet Corn And Poblano Empanadas
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Fava Bean Toast
Chickpea Fritters
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Pancake
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Ahi Tuna Tostada
Pan Roasted Okra
Roasted Carrots
Beef Heart
photo credit: Sandy Noto