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When a restaurant has an all-over-the-place menu full of dishes like empanadas with blueberry salsa, lingonberry-glazed beef heart, and Japanese seafood pancakes, it seems unlikely that everything on it will work. But at Gadabout in Andersonville, it somehow does. Everything we’ve eaten here makes sense, even the roasted corn with black pepper mascarpone, bacon, sweet pepper vinaigrette, lima beans, and spicy cornflakes. If that combination sounds weird and complicated, that’s because it is - but it all comes together. And the space is decorated with furniture from the Brown Elephant, so it feels like you’re hanging out at a friend’s who really likes old bookcases and vintage Parcheesi board.

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