CHIReview
Adorn does “casual fancy” as well as one might imagine a Gold Coast restaurant inside the Four Seasons Hotel would. It's a backdrop for two specific occasions: business casual meals and semi-formal dinners with hard-to-please family from out-of-town. You can order four-figure bottles of wine and the $250 caviar service, but the staff will be equally as attentive if you stick to a cocktail and a $30 burger. And while the food is generally good, the flavor intensity is hit-or-miss. The tartare will leave you searching for beefiness or tang from the cornichon, but the sea bass in anchovy cream and cippolini onions is a great example of a dish here that’s light yet perfectly seasoned. Whatever you get, save room for dessert like the black velvet. Gingerbread namelaka, caramelized rum banana, and charcoal ice cream are shaped into an abstract black swan, a visually stunning plate that tastes as good as it looks.
