La Esquina

The area around La Rambla is probably known more for the dexterity of pickpockets than the quality of food, so we’re lucky to have La Esquina. The all-day cafe near the shopping strip off Plaça Catalunya serves onion-ier-than-average omelets, hearty butifarra, plump roast chicken croquettes, and sandwiches like the Bikini: grilled cheese with Iberian ham and irresistibly oozy gruyère. The ambiance is more café-bistro than a formal restaurant, so come as you are—no need for reservations. After dark, it turns into a romantically lit bistro with Catalan natural wines and hearty dishes like oxtail sandwiches with smoked Idiazábal cheese. They taste like they would at your Catalan friend’s house, which is why this is a rare spot in the neighborhood that gets the local seal of approval.