Three Sacks Full

This former pop-up dinner series opened up a Ravenna spot that features fancy grains and local produce. Unfortunately, the dishes are so far a bit void of life. Bland and cold slices of potato and leek frittata are passed off as a “snack,” wild mushrooms suspended in corn spoonbread are aggressively seasoned with black pepper, and grilled albacore is so overcooked that even brothy mayocoba beans can’t save it. The dining room feels just as lackluster, with inconsistent gaps between courses. So what’s the silver lining? Is there a silver lining? Yes, their crusty homemade bread—made from freshly milled flour—is an outstanding specimen of chewy char and pillowy dough. But that’s not quite enough to warrant spending $80 per person yet. We’ll be back to try more soon.