SEAReview
photo credit: Nate Watters
Sugo Hand Roll Bar
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In a city that lacks both high-end sushi lunch options and Downtown seafood restaurants that aren’t all crab cakes and halibut, we’re glad we have Sugo. This Japanese spot serves excellent handrolls layered with quality fish, and it works well whether you’re walking around Pike Place by yourself or planning a dinner date with a couple of friends.
For a four-sided counter that looks like it belongs at a busy airport terminal, Sugo’s dining room feels equal parts relaxing and exciting, between the Alesso tunes in the background and blowtorches lighting up king salmon on a pink Himalayan salt block. Get some chilled sake, fill out the ordering card at your seat, and you’ll be off to the races.
photo credit: Nate Watters
A meal at Sugo is a whirlwind of delicious handrolls with fillings that are simple and effective, like sesame-forward ahi poke with chili threads, marinated ikura, and shredded snow crab splashed with spicy mayo. There are more elevated toppings, like seared wagyu with uni and caviar, or melty chopped otoro with fresh scallion, but don’t assume that those are automatically better than the basic ones though—our advice is to go with what you usually gravitate towards. Each crisp sheet of nori is wrapped around ever-so-warm rice and raw fish with polished precision, and these handrolls make for a superb waterfront seafood meal if you’re not in the mood for Market Grill or Jack’s Fish Spot.
While you should come here prioritizing the fish handrolls, there are some worthy detours. You can build a really satisfying plant-based meal, with vegetarian options like truffled mashed avocado dotted with tempura crunchies, fried green beans, and crispy battered tofu alongside sweet onion shavings and pea shoots. There are also tasty appetizers if you’re really hungry. The seared sashimi is a non-negotiable starter, and other snacks include panko-breaded shrimp on a miso soup shooter, and tempura nori chips topped with masago, tomato, eel sauce, and Beecher’s cheese, which sounds like an excessive disaster but really works.
The only downside to ordering small plates is that you might experience timing issues. Much like the Grocery Outlet Bargain Market radio jingle during a long drive, these handrolls start coming whether you’re ready or not. We’re talking like right after you order and even before you can finish your appetizers. You’re then left with a difficult choice of letting your handrolls get soggy or having your starters grow cold. You could also be left stranded without the next temaki—or the check—for 15 minutes.
But these end up being minor complaints. In fact, we encourage you to stay for a while if you can. Go ahead, order another seaweed-wrapped bundle of scallops. This isn’t actually an airport terminal, after all.
Food Rundown
Seared Ora King Salmon Sashimi
Norichos
Miso Soup Shooter
photo credit: Nate Watters
Hawaiian Poke Handroll
photo credit: Nate Watters
Sugo Spicy Tuna Handroll
photo credit: Nate Watters
Truffle Avocado Handroll
photo credit: Nate Watters
Crispy Tofu Handroll
photo credit: Nate Watters