SFReview

photo credit: Taylor Gomez

The $110 phozilla from Gao Viet Kitchen
8.1

Gao Viet Kitchen

Vietnamese

Sunset

$$$$Perfect For:Date NightBig Groups
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Gao Viet Kitchen is the only place in SF charging $110 for a bowl of phở. And while the kiddie pool-sized, highly photogenic “Phozilla” is loaded with lobster, filet mignon, bone marrow, and other expensive buzzwords, it’s not the reason to come to this upscale-ish spot—that honor goes to the more traditional Vietnamese staples on the extensive menu. This two-story spot excels at dishes like bánh cuốn that stay chewy even when drenched in nước chấm, ultra-light bánh khọt, and glistening five-spice pork belly. Split it with a hot date (or your entire extended family) while sipping on a cocktail with phở-spiked rum from the full bar.

Food Rundown

Phozilla

This bowl of soup could comfortably feed six people, which is one way to justify that it costs $110. Yes, the bones slide out of the beef rib with ease, and the lobster, bone marrow, and filet mignon make this luxurious as hell. But it’s really just a bowl of phở. You’re better off getting the Big Gao Phở ($33) instead, which comes with the same tender beef rib and feels a lot less like burning a hole in your wallet.

Bánh Khọt

Our favorite starter on the menu. The little turmeric-tinted shrimp cups are crisp on the curled-up edges, but creamy and light when you pop them into your mouth.

Bánh Cuốn

We appreciate that these rice noodle rolls are pinched together at the ends so the earthy, sweet pork and mushroom filling doesn’t fall out. The plate also comes with some sausage on the side, plus sliced steamed pork and a salad’s worth of cucumber, lettuce, and pickled vegetables. Order one for the table.

Pork Belly - Thịt Ba Chỉ Gia Vị

Caramelized into oblivion on the edges and equal parts meaty and fatty, this pork starter is a definite crowd-pleaser. It’s served with woven vermicelli mats that soak up all the five-spice flavor.

Grilled Scallops

A little tough, and hard to detach from the shells they arrive on. Feel free to skip.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

Suggested Reading

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Lily

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For impressive Northern Vietnamese dishes punched up with unexpected surprises, come to Bodega SF in the Tenderloin.

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You come to Thanh Long, a Sunset institution, for whole roast crab and the most iconic garlic noodles in the city.

A spread of banh uot chay, bun rieu, bun, and more at Mong Thu

The city’s very best bánh mì, bún riêu, and butter-soaked roast crab.

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