NYCReview
photo credit: David A. Lee
Mariscos El Submarino
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Mariscos El Submarino could serve their Mexican seafood dishes in the middle of traffic on the George Washington Bridge and we’d still implore you to seek them out. Fortunately for you and tri-state-area commuters at large, all you need to do is stop by this excellent counter-service restaurant in Jackson Heights.
Situated on the stretch of Roosevelt Avenue dominated by Mexican shops, delis, and restaurants, Mariscos El Submarino opened in early 2020 with a particular focus on towering tostadas, acid-bathed octopus and shrimp, and dynamic aguachile. You can order their aguachile in the rojo, verde, or negro variety - the different options correspond to the respective peppers incorporated in each one. Like a ceviche, expect the firm-squishy textural contrast of the aguachile to warrant a ballad dedicated to tilapia, only with slow-building heat and a stewier consistency. You will probably want to pick up the dish and slurp up the liquid, but your throat might disagree with that choice because of the shocking slurry of peppers. Sorry to your throat.
photo credit: David A. Lee
Although their aguachile negro is the dish you shouldn’t leave without (it comes in tostada form or served in a molcajete as large as your head), Mariscos El Submarino’s seafood specialties don’t stop there. There are enough shrimp dishes to warrant a crustacean adaption of Candyland (called Shrimpland, obviously). Mariscos El Submarino offers everything from a dizzyingly sweet shrimp cocktail, a burger with shrimp on top, several different kinds of ceviche, and a taco el enchilado made with shrimp that’s been chopped and marinated in a spicy, bright red sauce.
Other than a highly relatable sign that reads “’el amor puede esperar el hambre no,” the space here has the look of a fluorescent, nondescript lunch counter. And while you might find it a little too casual for a nice date or a big family dinner, we stand by the fact that as soon as lime-and-pepper-soaked shrimp and creamy avocado enter the equation, you won’t care one bit where you’re sitting. So order at the counter, grab a tamarind soda or a cold beer from the fridge, and wait for your plastic tray of freakishly divine fish to arrive.
Food Rundown
photo credit: David A. Lee
Aguachile Negro
photo credit: David A. Lee
Ceviche El Submarino
photo credit: David A. Lee