LAReview
Included In
The butter at Bicyclette, a French bistro by the people behind Republique, is no ordinary butter. Shaped like a bright yellow mountain, it’s full of craggy and jagged bits, as if sculpted out of the side of Mount Everest.
When this very special butter hits the table at this Beverlywood restaurant, something happens to us. The world of bumper-to-bumper traffic, Zoom calls, and ignoring third-tier friends fades into the background. We find ourselves in some sort of dream state: our sweaters transform into 18th-century garb, everything’s lit by candlelight, and we’re no longer on the verge of tears after our latest tweet only got two likes.
Simply put, a meal at Bicyclette feels like a welcome escape - not only from the hellscape of daily life, but also from the other French options around LA that generally fall into two buckets: very casual or very fancy. A dinner at Bicyclette is nice enough to feel like a luxury, but won’t force you to take out a loan. There aren’t any $200 duck presses or soggy crepes - just hearty, properly made bistro food that will run you about $100 per person.
photo credit: Jakob Layman
The focus here is on French home-style cooking, a.k.a. simple, heavy foods that taste like they’ve been injected with butter by Julia Child herself. Escargots are drowned in garlic sauce then baked into flaky puff pastry (which our server instructed us to delicately cut into before flipping upside down in order to maximize its buttery juices). Beef short ribs arrive tenderly on the bone, sitting upright in a pool of gravy so rich and dark, it resembles a chocolate river. Then, there’s this hypnotic caramelized onion tart that, when dropped at the table, may cause someone to murmur “is that a portal?” even before they taste the soft, sweet onions.
photo credit: Jakob Layman
The atmosphere at this subterranean spot is cozy (for those using walking aids, there’s a handy wheelchair lift next to the descending staircase). Mosaic tiles run along the floor, European art posters line the teal walls, and the lights are dim. Large and small tables mix together like a giant game of Jenga, filled with families taking photos with the flash on and 60-year-olds watching the crowd in amusement.
Meals hover around the two-hour mark, so you’ll want to be across the table from someone you actually like talking to. The service is immaculate (we once had a ten-minute conversation with our food runner about the imported ham they use). And for the $100 price point, Bicyclette offers a special, comforting experience, ideal for graduation dinners on your family’s dime or catch-ups with a longtime friend.
Or, if you’ve just watched Julie & Julia and had a disturbingly realistic daydream about Meryl Streep slathering you in butter, Bicyclette works pretty damn well for that too.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Super Cute Cocktail Menu
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Baguette, Normandy Butter, Preserved Vintage Sardines
Yellowfin Tuna Tartare
Little Gem Salad
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Burgundy Escargots En Croute
Caramelized Onion Tart
Onion Soup Gratinee
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Duck Breast
photo credit: Anne Fishbein