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Whereas St. John’s original Clerkenwell home is somewhere you enter, arms outstretched, accepting and embracing it will be the entirety of your day or night, its Spitalfields sibling is a little more nuanced. The monochrome bar and canteen is arguably London’s most understated and stylish dining room. Well-heeled sorts float in and out for work lunches, birthday dinners, or an impeccable jam doughnut to go.
While this is a place of nose-to-tail worshipping, the British menu lends itself more to sharing. Intimate two-person tables line the space with beef mince on toast sat in the middle, while rowdier crews fill the middle, eagerly waiting for their pre-ordered whole suckling pig. Pleasingly, the dessert menu at Bread and Wine is almost as long as the savouries, and a meal should always end with at least a dozen madeleines, a knickerbocker glory, something crumbly with custard, and eccles cake and cheese for good measure.