LDNReview
Included In
America is the home of overly-sincere, across-the-board courtesy. In the UK, there’s something heartening about barging someone on the Tube and getting a Malcolm Tucker-esque torrent of abuse. Being called a bog-eyed half-wit is somehow reassuring. Comforting, even. Whereas in America, you’ll apologise, and receive a ‘you’re fine’ in return. Is it fine though? It doesn’t seem fine? Why is a vein on your head throbbing? This feels like the opposite of fine. What we’re trying to say is, don’t say something is fine just because you feel the need to.
Pollen Street Social is a ‘fine dining’ restaurant in Mayfair. In restaurant terms that means three things:
Your food will be introduced to you like you’re at an aristocratic débutante party. “Have you met this Lincolnshire rabbit? Wonderful family. Can be a little hammy”.
Your water will be poured for you incessantly. You’ve never known hydration like this. You are a Herbal Essences advert.
There will be flowers. On your table. In your food. Everywhere.
photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch
Even though Pollen Street Social presents these classic traits, it doesn’t feel like a ‘fine dining’ restaurant, so we don’t see why anyone should consider it as one. For a start, there’s an atmosphere. Old people, young people, smart people, scruffy people. All talking, laughing, eating. It feels...normal. Or as normal as a place that serves wild mushroom broth with parmesan foam can be.
And then there’s the food. Nothing here reads kitchen-ego. It’s food you want to eat. Quail with summer vegetables and cabbage pesto is as delicious as it sounds. Yes, it’s a bit fancy. And a hand will appear to pour your duck tea broth for you. But it’s also really nice. The same goes for the ham wrapped rabbit with a stuffed courgette flower. There’s no mystery or smart-arse ‘Rabbit Running In Petals’ type descriptions. The food sounds good on the menu. And it tastes good too.
On paper, this place looks like a special occasion restaurant. But that doesn’t mean it has to be a big hoo-ha that’s organised weeks in advance. It’s the kind of restaurant you come to for a proper catch-up with friends or family. If you come for dinner, expect to pay £100 a head without wine. We’re not generally ones for a full tasting menu, but that ain’t cheap either.
That’s not to say that Pollen Street Social can’t be done a little savvily though. The three-course set lunch is around £50. This gets you three courses, plus extras, at an accessible price. It’s a tonne of good food in a nice restaurant, and we’re fine with just calling it that.
Food Rundown
Quail, Summer Vegetables, Cabbage Pesto, Duck Tea Broth
photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch
Smoked Eel, Buttermilk, Apple, Fennel, Jellied Eel
Heirloom Tomato Salad
photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch
Pork Chop, Onion & Mustard Purée, Charcuterie Sauce
Gnocchi, Pesto, Mushrooms, Parmesan Foam
photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch
Rabbit, Stuffed Courgette Flower, Beans With Basil
photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch
Suckling Pig, Roasted Chicory, Braised Red Cabbage, Lardo Stuffed Date
Lemon, Lime, Olive Oil Sponge, Honey Crackling, Basil Sorbet
photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch