LDNReview
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Paul Rothe & Son Delicatessen
Included In
Nothing spells existential despair like searching for a quick and fulfilling lunch in central London. However, Paul Rothe will lift anyone’s spirits. The oldest of old-school sandwich shops (it opened in 1900), this century-old Marylebone deli will do anything you like. Homemade prawn cocktail? Of course. Ham, cheese, and piccalilli? A classic. Smoked salmon with one squeeze of lemon? Your wish is their command. For springy quartered sandwiches and a feeling of Britishness so quaint that you could picture Paddington Bear delivering rattling cups of tea to your table, there is simply nowhere that does it quite like here.
Inside it’s somewhere between a caff, a deli, and a Ye Olde Chutney Emporium. Jars of jams, pickles, and condiments line the wall and there are half a dozen or so formica tables plus a little counter to call dibs on. Manners are encouraged but don’t make the mistake of standing on ceremony. It’s a first come first served policy, and you need to give your order, most likely to Stephen—the always-amiable great grandson of Paul Rothe—before you sit down.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
There are certain words that fly around this deli on a regular basis. ‘White’, ‘please’, ‘brown’, ‘thank you’, ‘scotch broth’, and ‘ta’ are seven of them. On weekends it’s chokka and the crowd is a mixture of wizened old-timers with jacket potatoes, beans, and cheese in front of them and quizzical tourists eyeing up a bowl of coronation chicken like a suspect accused of crimes to gastronomy. Given this spot’s history, there are often just as many new faces as there are old ones. But decisiveness is key at Paul Rothe regardless of how regular you are. Brown bread. Red sauce. Soup on the side. You’ll soon get into the rhythm. The scotch broth, which is made from chicken and ham off-cuts (and, if you’re lucky, peppery pastrami) is particularly popular among Marylebone regulars.
When it comes to the sandwiches, old friends like egg mayo with anchovies and pastrami with Swiss cheese and gherkins are gratifying favourites. Something about Paul Rothe’s loaf tin bread is especially soft but the crust still maintains a satisfying chew. Washed down with a carton of Ribena, these handfuls, from a plate inside or a paper bag outside, are pretty close to perfect.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Egg Mayo And Anchovy
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Pastrami, Swiss Cheese, Mustard, Pickle
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Coronation Chicken