LDNReview
Mao Chow
This spot is Permanently Closed.
Included In
There are small restaurants, there are cosy restaurants, and then there’s Mao Chow - an entirely vegan Chinese restaurant in London Fields that’s one Henry hoover away from being mistaken for an airing cupboard.
Finite space aside, the thing to know about this tiny 12-seater spot is that it makes some tasty food. Their sesame dan dan noodles with soy mince, cucumber, and a sauce that we’d definitely enforce the 30-second rule for if we dropped it on the floor, are better than a lot of meat versions we’ve had in the past. And their homemade dumplings, filled with a ‘meaty veg’ mixture, are satisfying and mysterious, like an ASMR-read riddle.
Not everything works here though. The good things - noodles, greens, and dumplings - are all punchy in flavour and heat. While the less good things - smacked cucumber, doughy bao, and mid-winter open door policy - can you leave you cold, both literally and figuratively.
That said, this is a fine (and fitting) addition to Hackney. The walk-in, or rather squeeze-in, only policy is perfect for an unplanned noodle or dumpling stop after a pint too many up the road. And the cash-only policy separates the wheat from the chaff, though there is a free cashpoint in the garage opposite. Just make sure you bagsy a seat before doing anything else.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
Dan Dan Noodles
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
Dumplings
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
Oyster Mushroom Bao
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
Strange Flavour Brussel Sprouts
Gong Bao Asparagus
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli