LDNReview
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Bouchon Racine
Included In
If white noise helps you put a newborn to sleep, and pink noise is what you hear as rain hammers against a bus stop, what Bouchon Racine creates is something we’re calling beige noise. The consistent low-level hum that plays in this French bistro in Farringdon—of friends chattering, corks squeaking, and cutlery scraping against beige and brown brilliance—is one of pure and utter contentment. Put it into a Spotify playlist and let us close our eyes and feel it 24/7, because this is a restaurant that should be enjoyed on loop.
Like all great Anglo-French unions, it sits on top of a pub. The Three Compasses is a cigarette’s flick away from Farringdon station but once you walk up the stairs to Bouchon Racine, this bistro woos you in ways far more elegant than a pint of 1664. Light pours into the comfortable loft-like space during the day, lanterns glow at night, and chalkboard menus lean against the wall like Gallic scriptures. The staff exude such wiseness that we’d take a beaujolais recommendation from them like we would a prescription from our GP. And there’s an overall confidence that’s tasted in every impeccable chip dunked into the rabbit’s mustard sauce, and from every spoonful of luscious crème caramel.
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Professionalism says that we should revisit restaurants multiple times before making a judgement. But with Bouchon Racine we revisited for the guarantee of gluttony. To make sure we could mop up the escargots à la bourguignonne with bread, like the elderly couple on our left did. Or split a dover sole à la meunière as per the champagne-heavy birthday celebration on our right.
Like any institutional French bistro, the phone lines exist more in spirit than reality, but persevere for a booking and you will be welcomed like family. A correctly judged lunch ends when the sun decides to call it a day. Dinner only after the cognac has come out. And that noise you didn’t realise you were hearing? That’s the sound of a natural born restaurant.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Baguette
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Escarole Salad
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Bayonne Ham & Celeriac Remoulade
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Escargots à la Bourguignonne
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Rabbit, Mustard Sauce, Smoked Bacon
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Bavette, Sauce Saint Marcellin
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch
Chips
photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch